However, the shallow angles imparted by the riller bar don't leave any place for air to hide, the valleys easily fill with snow. Second, the tool imparts a constant peak and valley structure which I believe creates drag. Flat surfaces are far better for speed, but they naturally produce surface tension. The riller bar ignores that reality. The Base Flattener stone blades are better than the riller bar because they cause a generally flat surface but what is particularly important about them is that they open the pores of sintered bases far more effectively than stone grinding, the pores then help to provide the "hidden pockets of air" to reduce surface tension.
The pressure and speed of a stone grinding wheel moves base plastic laterally, closing off pores as it grinds off plastic. Although stone grinding can make bases look great, I really think the result have significant limitations. Even though the stone blades worked very well, I still wasn't satisfied with what I really wanted. My objective, to maximize structure benefit, was to have lots of flat base area that is cut extremely cleanly so that the base pores are left wide open, and, deep and very narrow structure cuts to give lots of area for air to "hide" without having significant affect on the flat base surface.
It was incredibly difficult to find a way to achieve that result, but the structure tool does just that. Regardless of its athletic interpretation, it is a very effective device.
You cannot observe the structure it imparts by looking at the ski bases. Your objection questions the very objective I was trying to accomplish, various levels of deep structure that are not observable on the surface.
You can see the depths of the structure by looking at the blades, but you really can't see it by looking at the base. I think that is the way it should be and worked hard to get that result. Each additional pass down the ski will make that distance change, obviously. The number of passes is the choice of the tuner, the desired results are personal.
We give you tools that allow you to experiment effectively and find what you want, but the final choices are yours. With ski tuning, there really isn't any right or wrong, it really is personal. I don't tell anyone how I tune my skis because it would be considered "wacko". But it works for me, it is very creative, and very unconventional. And fun. Each blade has two cutting edges, the serrated edge and the "smoothe" edge.
If you feel it carefully you will feel a burr on the smoothe edge even though the edge looks harmless. That burr is sharp and will cut base plastic effectively, it is what I call the "fine" blade but maybe it should be "extra" fine. The point is this, after you structure with the serrated side, it is good tuning procedure to go over it with the "fine" blade to finish the job.
I have to admit that I am continually reluctant to introduce tools and tuning concepts because they conflict with conventional approaches. The structure tool is a perfect example. What can I say. I think the tool incorporates objectives that the competition hasn't even begun to think about. Those are my thoughts anyway. This removes any sharp ridgetops that might otherwise protrude too deep into the snow and reduce glide.
Follow up using a scotchbrite pad wrapped around a sanding block or with a twist-lok block to remove loose P-tex hairs that were created during the sanding process. What looks clean from the top can look very fuzzy from the side. This is especially true if you structure with regular sandpaper. On the World Cup, race skis are rarely stoneground Instead, they are well-waxed and brushed with a special steel bristle brush on a regular basis.
Although the structure slowly wears, the microscopic surface of the base becomes increasingly smoother and faster over time. But there's a few concerns you might want to be aware of, too. First, it takes about 5 or 6 passes over a stone grinder to get ski bases flat, followed by 3 or 4 more passes to put in the structure.
That's a lot of grinding. On alpine skis or snowboards that have steel edges and thick p-tex bases, this is no big deal But nordic skis obviously don't have steel edges, and the base material is often much thinner, too. If too much material is removed each stone-grinding, you may not have much of a base left to stand on There are big differences between stone grinding alpine skis and nordic skis that shop mechanics must understand It's also thought by some technicians that the flex of a nordic ski is affected by the thickness of the base material And, lastly, the high price of stone-grinding adds up quickly.
Our advice? If you're getting a stone grind, seek out a shop that specializes in nordic ski machine tuning and has the expertise to do it right Otherwise, stick to hand structuring where you can completely control the process.
Although they may look cool and contribute to ski performance, these features can cause big problems when running 'em through a stone grinder. The top feed wheel on most stone grinders will firmly push down with greater pressure on high spots and less pressure on lower spots This can really screw up a ski, so if you're taking your gear in for a stone grind, be sure the ski shop is aware of this potential problem.
Some shops will use plates or dense foam that attach to the ski tops to help neutralize these irregularities, others make light slow passes to minimize ski deformation, and some fancy robotic stone grinders use full-length, constant height transports to apply even pressure along the length of the ski.
In any event, be sure the shop frequently monitors base grinding progress with a true bar to avoid potentially damaging results. How can I do that? Also, I have a similar problem with oxidation on my bases sometimes Either of these methods allow you to fill a gouge without impacting much surrounding base material. Then let the p-tex cool and remove any excess with a versaplane blade, followed by a sharp steel scraper. These steps, if done carefully, allow you to complete the repair without affecting much surrounding structure.
And since the repair is so small, it's okay to leave this part unstructured since it's probably too small to have a noticeable effect on your glide. Oxidation, however, is a tougher challenge since it usually involves a larger surface area.
First, we would recommend hot-waxing on a regular basis to help prevent oxidation in the first place Baring that, we'd recommend making light passes over the oxidized area with a fine scotchbrite pad, followed by more light passes with an omni-prep pad, followed by brushing the structure with our steel base texturing brush. If this does the trick, it should also leave most of your original structure intact. If the oxidation is deeper, however, you'll need to sacrifice some structure.
Use the Skivisions Base Flattener tool or a sharp and stiff steel base planer blade to scrape away the offending area. Follow this work with the steps listed above. Then you'll need to renew the structure by getting a new stonegrind, or imparting a hand structure.
Afterwards, hot-wax the base on a frequent basis to help protect it from future oxidation. Sophisticated stonegrinders and other tuning machinery isn't necessarily difficult to operate, but can do an awful lot of damage when run by someone who doesn't know what they're doing. The molded handle gives you the best grip while the hardened tip gives extra power and durability. A snowboard screwdriver. But perfect. They know how to pack the most into a small package and the Dakine BC Tool is no exception.
Thank you for sharing that! Well be sure to reach out them next go around. Nothing wrong with simplicity. As for the tape measure, usually I just wing it anyways.. I think we all have an idea of how wide we want our stance for snowboarding.
Save my name, and email in this browser for the next time I comment. Best Snowboard Tools. Burton Bullet Tool. Burton EST Tool. Dakine Fidget Tool. Leatherman Wingman. Dakine Super Tune Kit. Toko Edge Tuner Pro. Dakine Edge Tuner. This tool works very well with Scotchbrite or Omni-Prep pads. It ensures even pressure across the full width of the pad which equals more effective polishing.
Hundreds of tiny plastic hooks on the base of the tool grip the pad with an unmatched ferocity This super-soft, lint-free microfiber cloth helps remove unwanted ultra-fine P-tex hairs from the base after structuring by machine or hand tool. Make several passes against the hairs until the cloth slides freely down the base when it's tilted at a Good for wetter snow, like spring time slush.
Six inches long. For comprehensive information on using this tool, click here. Stones can be redressed. Tools and stones made in This is the stone that is included with the tool, available seperately as well.
Good for most conditions. Tools and stones made in the USA Steel scrapers are widely used in traditional woodworking to impart a smooth finish on cabinets and tables, turns out they work equally well for smoothing out P-Tex on the bases of skis and snowboards. Use to remove excess P-Tex repair material, Inspect and evaluate the condition of base material and edges.
Analyze base structure definition, the finish of steel edge surfaces, the presence of unwanted p-tex hairs or oxidation. Study snow crystals. Yields valuable An easy to use and durable true bar for determining base flatness and base edge bevel. Round shape ensures a drop to the floor won't render it useless. Matte black finish makes sighting easier. These 6" x 9" abrasive pads are handy for a variety of uses, although they're most popular for scrubbing unwanted p-tex "hairs" off of bases after they've been freshly flattened or structured.
We also use them to clean off the warm tips of base This is a superb tool for removing excess base material left over from P-Tex base repairs. Thick steel blade makes quick work of the most stubborn material, a definite step up from a steel scraper. Ergo handle securely holds the double sided blade, one These thick white pads quickly erase any microscopic p-tex hairs left on the base after structuring.
Unique fiber strands catch and cut drag-inducing hairs from the base leaving it smooth and fast.
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